Okavango Delta Safari

Region Explained

Chief’s Island was once the private hunting ground of the local Chief Moremi, but was incorporated into the wider Moremi Game Reserve in 1976. Roughly 60km long and 10km wide, the island is only accessible by boat or, more usually, by light aircraft, to one of the very few high-end luxury lodges and mobile camps that operate on the island itself. Day boat trips and overnight boat safaris can also be arranged from Maun, but in general the island sees very low visitor numbers and is certainly Botswana’s most exclusive wildlife destination.

Highlights

Rhino in the wild: Besides the small Khama Rhino Sanctuary in western Botswana, Chief’s Island is the only place in the country where you have a good chance of seeing rhino in the wild. Once common across Botswana they were completely wiped out by poaching, but were successfully reintroduced to central Moremi in the early 2000s.

Exclusive game viewing: Moremi is arguably Botswana’s best wildlife-viewing region, and Chief’s Island is undoubtedly the reserve’s most game-rich and exclusive area. It’s the only place in Botswana which supports all of the Big Five and excellent predator sightings are virtually guaranteed.

Practical Advice

Chief’s Island’s two main lodges are among the most luxurious in Africa, offering all-inclusive, fly-in safaris, usually transferring through Maun. Day or overnight boat trips from Maun are the more affordable option, but however you visit you’ll need to book well in advance. The island can be visited at any time of year, but May to August sees extensive flooding in some areas. This can be a wonderful time to visit Chief’s Island, but the focus shifts to boat and mokoro excursions instead of game vehicles and walking safaris.

Region Explained

On the south-eastern edge of the Okavango Delta, straddling the banks of the Thamalakane River, the bustling frontier town of Maun serves as the gateway to northern Botswana. If you’re on a fly-in safari, you’ll likely not leave the airport, instead making a quick change of planes before winging off into the central Delta. Those arriving by vehicle, however, usually stay a night or two, replenishing supplies, making repairs, getting laundry done and so on. Maun has large shopping centres, garages, banks, bars and camping supply stores, serving not just the steady stream of 4×4 visitors, but the hundreds of lodges, hotels, campsites and safari tour operators that ply their trade in the region.

Highlights

Flights over the Delta: The Okavango Delta is spectacular from above, and a flight over the Delta is highly recommended. A number of companies offer light aircraft and helicopter tours – with minimum flight time of 45 minutes. As is takes some minutes to get over the Delta properly, booking at least an hour is a good idea. Helicopters are more expensive, but the visibility – and photo opportunities – are much better.

Mokoro trips: Mekoro (plural) are the Delta’s traditional dugout canoes and multi-day excursions can be arranged from Maun. If the water is high enough you’ll start with a speedboat transfer from Maun itself, otherwise a vehicle will drive you north of town to the launch site. Once into the Delta, local guides will pole you along, stopping at deserted, wild islands for a few unforgettable nights under the stars. Day trips can also be arranged, but it’s usually more practical to stick to the Thamalakane River – most river lodges have small motorboats for birding and sunset cruises.

Practical Advice

Maun is a great place to head it you’re travelling solo – everyone passes through the town on their way north or south. It’s much more affordable booking group activities into the Delta and in Maun you’ll be able to join bigger tours and meet new people. All of Botswana’s major campsite and tour operators have offices in Maun and although it’s always a good idea to book in advance, last minute itinerary changes can be made in Maun in person (which is often much easier than by email or over the phone!). There’s not much safari-related that you can’t get done in Maun, from buying a new tent or camping chair to welding or major mechanical repairs. It’s also the last place to get fuel before the long drive north to Kasane.

Moremi Game Reserve covers the central and eastern edges of the Okavango Delta and is one of Botswana’s most famous parks. In the central region, dominated by Chief’s Island, a couple of beautiful luxury lodges provide fly-in safaris to one of the most pristine wildlife havens in the world. East of Chief’s Island, a roughly triangular wedge incorporates expansive mopani and riverine hardwood forests, open swamp grasslands, reed beds and waterways. This wedge of land provides the only public vehicle access into the Delta, with four main camping areas and a handful of private campsites and lodges.

Highlights

Fantastic fauna and flora: Moremi is arguably Botswana’s best wildlife region, with permanent water that attracts big game year-round. Over 1000 species of plants grow along the waterways and in the surrounding plains, which in turn are home to over 400 species of birds. All of Africa’s iconic megafauna can be found here, although rhino are concentrated on Chief’s Island where they can be more easily monitored and protected from poaching.

Boat trips into the Delta: Boat excursions can be arranged from the two main waterway campsites, Third Bridge and Xakanaxa, and there’s also a small boat station on the Mboma peninsular near Third Bridge. Both motorboat and mokoro trips are available – do both if you can, they’re equally special for different reasons. While mekoro are silent and peaceful (and with a knowledgeable guide a great way to learn about the waterways’ small plants and animals), the faster boats will get you out into the more distant lagoons, with the chance of seeing big game and large nesting bird colonies from the water.

Practical Advice

Most visitors to Moremi’s eastern section arrive in their own 4×4 – and soon realised that the park’s roads are something of a challenge. In the dry season (roughly April to November), thick sand can make the going very slow, especially between Third Bridge and Xakanaxa. In July and August, however, is the Delta itself is at its fullest and roads along the waterways can flood completely. Once the rains begin in November/December many tracks clog up with mud. Some 4×4 experience is certainly a good idea and travelling in convoy is also highly recommended. Note that there’s no fuel at all between Maun and Kasane, and no shops either (although there’s a new small camp shop at Third Bridge). You need to be completely self-sufficient when visiting Moremi, and that includes your own supply of fresh drinking water. None of the public campsites are fenced and visitors are expected to be careful of wild animals at all times, and never to leave their campsite after dark.

Region Explained

Outside of Moremi Game Reserve the Okavango Delta is divided into a number of unfenced concession areas, each managed by a local community or private safari operator. In north-western Botswana, the concessions are designated ‘NG’ – an acronym for the broader municipal area, known as Ngamiland. Along the Delta’s northern edge, you’ll find NG12, NG18, NG19, NG20, NG21, NG22 and NG23, each with their own lodges and tented camps, and offering a range of activities depending on their specific location, access to water, etc. NG19 is the most easterly and covered separately as the Khwai Community Concession – the rest run westwards, all the way to the Panhandle. On the whole, the concessions closer to the Panhandle receive more flood water and so have more opportunities for boat safaris, but each camp is uniquely situated, with those further back from the main channels focussing on walking safaris and game drives instead. This area offers some of the best wildlife viewing in the Delta, with more variety and greater numbers than in the south and west.

Highlights

Walking safaris: The Okavango Delta is not especially well-known for walking safaris, but good walking conditions are possible, particularly in the Delta’s northern concessions. Here you’ll find a beautiful mix of lush floodplains and open woodland, and plenty of plains game as you explore back from the waterways.

Boat safaris: Most camps in the northern concessions have good access to deep water, with fantastic opportunities to discover the Delta by motorboat. Mokoro (canoe) safaris are also usually possible, but motorboats allow quick access to a number of wonderful open lagoons. The north’s reed beds, twisting channels and scattered palm tree islands offer some of the most spectacular landscapes anywhere in the Delta.

Practical Advice

All the camps and lodges in the Delta’s northern concessions are extremely luxurious, with high season rates usually in excess of $1000 a person a night. Discounts of up to 50% are standard during the low season (December to March), but although there can still be some very fine days, rain and overcast conditions are the norm. Each camp offers its own specialist activities according to its location so be sure to check what’s available before you make your pick. May to August is the peak flood season and the best time to visit if you want to explore the Delta by boat. And April and May are best for photography, when the atmosphere is clearer after the end of the summer rains.

Region Explained

The Okavango Delta is fed by the Okavango River, which flows southeast from Angola, through Namibia’s Zambezi Region, and enters Botswana at the small border village of Mohembo. Here it spreads out into a strip roughly 11km wide, a thick green mass of twisting channels, dense papyrus and reed beds. This long, green ‘Panhandle’ continues for roughly 100km before fanning out into the Okavango Delta proper. Along its western edge you’ll find a number of self-drive safari and fishing camps and the area is, on the whole, much more low key and affordable than elsewhere in the Delta. Although there’s excellent fishing, good birding and plenty of crocs and hippos, the Panhandle is not known for big game and traditional wildlife safaris are not an option. However, unique to the area, are a selection of fully-crewed houseboats, ideal for larger groups looking to kick back on the water.

Highlights

Fishing: Angling is undoubtedly the Panhandle’s biggest attraction and there’s good fishing to be had throughout the year. Catfish and bream are common in the area, but tigerfish are the main prize, especially between August and November. Tigers up to 10kg have been caught in the northern channels and just about every lodge and camp offers guided fishing trips to find them.

The annual catfish run: This part of the Okavango sees the annual catfish run when thousands of predatory catfish, some up to 1.5m in length, swarm up the channels as the water levels start to drop (roughly August to November). As they go they hunt smaller fish and are in turn hunted by birds and tigerfish – an incredible feeding frenzy that’s a sight to behold!

Practical Advice

Unlike much of the Delta, the Panhandle is easily accessible, with a generally good, although in places badly potholed, tarmac road running along its western edge. Reaching some of the camps and lodges will still require a 4×4, however, as many of the access tracks are either extremely sandy or seasonally waterlogged. The eastern edge of the Panhandle is high-clearance only, with a single sandy track running south from Mohembo to Seronga. If you’re visiting the region a detour to the nearby Tsodilo Hills is recommended. It’s one of the world’s oldest inhabited sites, with archaeological evidence dating back 60,000 years.

Region Explained

The southern Delta can be divided into six main concessions, three smaller regions to the north and three larger areas further south. To the north, NG27A, NG27B and NG31 are so far north they’re practically central, sitting just off Chief’s Island along Moremi Game Reserve’s fenced southern border. When the floodwaters arrive much of this area is underwater and the lodges and camps here are especially well known for their mokoro safaris. Beautiful riverine forest characterises the region, including giant water berry, fever berry, fig, sausage and baobab trees. Further south, the three larger concessions are NG29, NG30 and NG32. Although their northern sections can see good floodwaters, these sprawling reserves are on the whole far drier and the camps specialise in game drives and horseback safaris.

Highlights

Horseback safaris: A multi-day horseback safari is a wonderful experience and a great way to get up close to plains game ‘on their terms’. For the most part wild antelope don’t see horses (and their riders) as a threat and it’s often possible to get much closer than on foot. Only very experienced riders are allowed, however, and you’ll need to be comfortable galloping out of any trouble!

Mokoro trips: The Delta’s southern regions are best known for mokoro safaris, especially the three smaller concessions just south of Chief’s Island. Day trips are often combined with short island walks and while wildlife tends to be elusive in these wetter areas, the birdlife is excellent and the soft reflections and stunning, riverine landscapes make for some spectacular photo opportunities.

Practical Advice

The annual flood usually arrives in April/May, rising first in the northwest, and lingering longest in the southeast. April to November is the best time to visit the area when the skies are clear and the floodwaters optimal for mokoro safaris. Although most of the southern lodges are extremely luxurious and exclusive, unlike the north there’s also a handful of more affordable mid-range camps. Significant discounts are available during the wet summer months (up to 50% off from December to March), but rain and overcast conditions are common during this period and despite the excellent birdlife it can be a bit miserable in a waterlogged mokoro.

Along the western edge of the Okavango, just below the Panhandle, the deep-water channels and surrounding floodplains are some of the most beautiful to be found anywhere in the Delta. Three main concession areas cover this stunning region and there are only a handful of exclusive camps and lodges. Concession NG24 is the most northerly and currently has no safari operation at all, while NG25 has half a dozen luxury camps and NG26, the most southerly, a couple more. Although the wildlife is not as diverse as in the concessions further east and north, elephant and lion are fairly common, as well as other smaller predators and antelope, including lechwe and sitatunga which are regularly seen. This is also an excellent area for water birds, and in the southwest, slightly back from the waterways, horseback safaris are also possible.

Highlights

Water-based activities: The more northerly camps have excellent access to the deep-water channels and motorboat and mokoro excursions are the norm. Boat-based bird-watching is popular and ‘catch and release’ fishing trips can also be arranged – look out for the annual catfish run which occurs between August and November.

Walking with elephants: Until recently elephant-backed safaris were still possible in this part of the Delta, but these have been phased out in favour of bush walks alongside the elephants and interacting with them from the ground.

Practical Advice

The floodwaters arrive earlier here than further east in the Delta, and tend to subside earlier too so timing is important. April to November is broadly the best period to visit, but come later in the season (from September, when the water levels are lower) for horseback safaris and general wildlife viewing. That said, the camps and lodges nearer the Panhandle have good water access and offer water-based activities year-round. A few are among the most luxurious in the Okavango, but there are one or two midrange options as well and, as is common practice throughout the Delta, there are substantial discounts during the rainy summer months (January to March).

The Okavango Delta is probably the world’s premier safari destination for honeymoon couples, with stunningly designed, intimate lodges and some of the best wildlife viewing in Africa.

Okavango delta lodges have a reputation for exceptional, personal service and many cater specifically for romantic holidays and honeymoons. Here you’ll find tented suites like villas, with sparkling plunge pools, outdoor showers and candle-lit baths.

And at night, raised walkways lined with warm, glowing lamps as you make your way down to dinner under the stars. Not all Okavango camps offer the same level of luxury, but standards are high just about everywhere you look. The focus is firmly on small-scale, personal experiences. Quality not quantity is the emphasis here for your Okavango Delta honeymoon.

There’s no one region that’s especially good for an Okavango Delta honeymoon, it’ll depend entirely on your budget and what you want to do.

There are beautiful, intimate camps and lodges scattered throughout the Okavango, but keep in mind that local conditions vary widely and the same camp can be very different at different times of year. Arrive from late April to the end of August and you’ll find the Delta flooded and green.

Many camps and lodges will be surrounded by open water, perched high on wooden stilts over an endless magical lagoon. But a few months later and the same area may be dry and bare, great for game viewing and a more traditional safari, but very different from earlier in the year.

That said, many lodges will offer a range of activities regardless of the season, even if transfers or other arrangements may need to be made. Make sure you’re aware of what’s available when you visit. You may need to pick your season carefully to fit your preferred activities in for your Okavango Delta honeymoon.

Highlights

Mokoro excursions are one of Okavango’s most special experiences and they can be incredibly romantic, especially with a private guide. When the floodwaters are high enough it may be possible to start right from camp – a real sense of exploration for more adventurous couples.

Many central Okavango lodges can only be reached by air and just flying in to camp is an adventure in itself. Longer sightseeing flights can also be arranged – in light aircraft, helicopters or hot-air balloons. But perhaps the most romantic experience is just to be in the Delta together. A honeymoon safari to the Okavango is the holiday of a lifetime and one neither of you will ever forget.

Travel Tips

The Okavango’s top lodges are all excellent for an Okavango Delta honeymoon, but if you prefer a holiday without children then look out for those with strict minimum age rules. There are a number of camps that don’t allow kids under 12 so there’s plenty of choice if you prefer adults only.

That said, most camps are well-designed and well-spaced out, and some have the added feature of private sundecks and plunge pools. April and May tend to have good weather, while being less busy, although early April may still see some late rainy season showers. Late May into June/July is also the best time for mokoro trips, although the Okavango’s camps and lodges do get busier as the flood season progresses.

An African safari is an unforgettable experience for kids, but long transfers and hours in the car can be a real challenge, especially for younger children. One solution is to pick a single camp or more manageable area and avoid daily travel as much as possible. In the Okavango Delta, this approach is ideal because there’s such a high concentration of wildlife and activities in such a small area. From a lodge in the Okavango you can arrange boat rides and mokoro trips, as well as game drives and bush walks with specially trained guides. There’s a minimum age limit for all safari activities in the Delta, and although it varies from lodge to lodge, it’s usually set between eight and 12. A handful of lodges also offer camp-based activities for kids, such as basic bush craft, animal identification and fishing.

In the past the Okavango has been a difficult place for families, but more and more lodges are now welcoming children. You’ll now find family-friendly lodges scattered throughout the Delta, although facilities vary considerably so it’s worth looking around. Some camps have been exceptionally well setup for kids, with private suites and family units, set to one side with their own lounge and play areas. Others simply have larger family-sized tents or interconnecting tents/rooms that can be booked as a unit so the whole family can sleep together. Additional perks may include specially trained guides for children, separate dining areas and staggered meal times – note, however, that child-minding services are rarely available and very few lodges cater for infants and very young children.

Highlights

Child-friendly safari activities depend on the lodge and the time of year. Well-equipped lodges can offer an incredible experience and the chance not just to see wild animals in their natural habitat, but to learn about their behaviour and the general environment as well. That said, there’s little point visiting during the peak floods if the lodge has an age limit on boat trips, for example. And families with children younger than eight (sometimes seven or nine) need to be especially aware of any restrictions. Between eight and 12, various junior safari options are more readily available, including motorboat trips, bush craft and basic animal tracking, fishing and game drives. Some camps and lodges have stricter policies than others and a few will assess kids on a case by case basis rather than apply blanket age restrictions to all. Above 12 years old the Delta opens up completely, although this also often means being charged a full adult rate.

Travel Tips

Age limits and child policies vary from lodge to lodge so be sure to check all the details very carefully before you book. Most lodges will insist that kids under eight years old have private game vehicles and guides, which is a great way for younger children to get the most out of the experience, but may also incur significant extra costs. For slightly older kids, mobile camps can be an exciting option. The outdoor camping element is always a thrill and there’s less chance of boredom as you move to a new campsite each night. On the whole it’s a good idea to bring everything you need with you, including bird and animal identification books and any other entertainment – such as board games – to keep them occupied between activities. Malaria is also an issue in northern Botswana and although many lodges are so remote that the risk is minimal, you will likely still need to transit through potentially infected areas. Some antimalarial medication is not suitable for young children so be sure to consult your doctor before you travel. Finally, local law now requires all parents travelling through South Africa and Botswana to carry an unabridged birth certificate for each of their children. The certificate must state the names of both parents and if one parent is absent you must also have an affidavit from them granting consent. The measures are in place to prevent child trafficking in Southern Africa and without the correct documents you will be denied travel.

Solo travel is unusual in the Okavango Delta, largely because experiences like this beg to be shared. Solo 4×4’ing also carries some risk, especially in the wet summer season from December to March. That said, there’s no reason not to explore the Delta on your own. Most lodges are more than happy to welcome solo guests. During the shoulder and off-seasons you may have the entire camp to yourself and it’s often possible to get a private, dedicated guide and customise your experience as much as you like. This presents some wonderful opportunities for photographers, and also for keen ornithologists in search of specific birds.

The Okavango Delta’s lodges are generally small, intimate affairs, and many offer communal dining and shared campfires in the evenings. There’s usually the chance to meet fellow travellers over dinner, but in many cases activities are organised privately per booking. This is obviously ideal if you’re after peace and solitude, but if you’d like to meet and travel with other people then your best option is to head for Maun. In Maun, you’ll find a vibrant nightlife in the handful of campsite bars and pubs. Here you’ll be able to join group game drives and mokoro tours and split the costs on otherwise fairly pricey sightseeing flights over the Delta.

Highlights

Having your own private guide is an incredible experience, especially out on the waterways in a motorboat or mokoro. The opportunities for photography are unmatched when travelling solo and keen birders and anglers can also request specialist guides. Generally speaking if you arrive alone at a lodge, you’ll quickly be made to feel completely at home. The lodges in Okavango specialise in a bespoke, personal service and will tailor activities to the interests of their guests.

Travel Tips

Most Okavango lodges charge a single supplement of at least 20% but this can go up to as much as 50% during peak season. Shoulder season (April/May and November/December) is far more affordable for solo travellers and those looking for solitude will also find the camps much quieter during these periods. Be sure to let your lodge know if you have any special interests, such as birding or fishing, and they’ll usually be able to pair you up with a specialist guide. If you’re on a tighter budget and looking to share costs, then head to one of the busier campsites or laid-back safari lodges in Maun. Here you’ll usually be able to join group activities, including mokoro safaris into the Delta, and sightseeing flights and game drives are much more affordable when shared. If you’re planning to drive alone in this region, then a word of caution before you set out. You should have some prior 4×4 experience and be carrying a satellite phone. Moremi Game Reserve is the only part of the Delta open to self-drive vehicles and although it’s quite close to Maun and not especially remote, it’s easy to get stranded there at any time of year.

Official counts vary, but it’s generally thought that the Okavango Delta supports at least 2000 major species. Over half of these are plants, from giant hardwoods to waterlilies, with huge reed beds and grasslands and thick riverine forests. In the midst of the Delta you’ll find wild date and fan palms, clustering on low islands between the fig and waterberry trees. Take a look at a satellite image and you’ll see just what an anomaly this is – a lush hand of vegetation reaching south into the sand.

Up close in the channels, beneath the waving papyrus, painted reed frogs can be seen clinging to the stems. Around 30 amphibians have been recorded in the Delta plus 60-odd reptiles and around 70 species of fish. In fact, many visitors come especially for the fishing and ‘catch and release’ fishing lodges are popular along the Panhandle. The ferocious-looking tigerfish is the most sought after prize, plus bream and huge catfish, up to a metre-and-a-half in length.

The Okavango Delta never drains completely and the best way to experience it is by boat. Whether you’re fishing or not, a boat excursion is essential, either by flat bottomed motorboat or local dugout canoe. Called ‘mekoro’, these canoes are polled through the narrow waterways – an ideal way to discover the Delta’s 400-plus species of birds. Expert guides will skirt around the pods of hippos, as you silently soak in one of the world’s last great open-air aviaries.

On the islands and floodplains Africa’s iconic megafauna awaits – over a third of the continent’s elephants move through the Delta each year. All of the Big Five are found here in good numbers, including black and white rhino which have been recently reintroduced. While predator sightings are never guaranteed, there are few places left where so many come together. Lion, leopard and cheetah are relatively common, as well as wild dog, hyena, jackal and the smaller wild cats. These prey on the many thousands of herbivores who are drawn to the Delta’s water and abundant food. The rare sitatunga and red lechwe are both adapted to the swamplands and you’ll also find the stunning roan and sable antelope with their scimitar-curved horns.

Barely touching the Delta’s north-eastern edge, the Khwai Community Concession runs along the Khwai River, just beyond Moremi Game Reserve’s North Gate. This small concession (number NG19) is owned and run by the community in nearby Khwai Village. About half a dozen midrange to luxury lodges operate here, as well as a couple of very basic campsites, all along the north bank of the narrow Khwai River. The river itself very rarely runs dry and is a magnet for game passing between Moremi and Chobe National Park to the north. It’s a beautiful, low key area that has the advantage of being easily accessible by 4×4 from Maun and also makes an excellent stopover between Moremi and Chobe.

Highlights

Excellent wildlife, especially close elephant encounters: The Okavango Delta is well-known for its phenomenal wildlife, largely because of its abundant water. The Khwai River is the nearest source for thousands of animals that forage and hunt in the mopani forests between Moremi and Chobe. As such, the river attracts plentiful wildlife, especially in the dry winter months when hot, thirsty elephants gather along its banks.

Cultural village tours: Tours of Khwai Village can also be arranged with the community directly or through one of the lodges that operate along the river. They’re a great way to see first-hand how the concessions benefit the community and speak to villagers about their traditional way of life.

Travel Tips

The Khwai region can be reached in a few hours’ drive from Maun, but you’ll need a 4×4 to negotiate some thick sand and a few water crossings. Alternatively, there’s a small airstrip which serves the lodges along the river. The village itself has a small shop, but supplies are very limited – perhaps no more than a few cool drinks and some crisps. If you’re not staying in a lodge, you’ll need to take everything with you; note that the two community campsites don’t have ablutions.